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When compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar high-end names. Yet, situated prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family completely shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary triumph.